GE Compressor problem

I have a General Electric Model AEM23DBR1 24,400 BTU window a/c 220 volt unit.
The compressor is coming on when the a/c is off, the problem started about a month ago.
The power/fan speed seletor is off, the thermostat is turned counter clockwise to the off position.

After several minutes the compressor will come on even though the a/c is turned off.
I know it's the compressor as the buzzing noise is coming from that area and you can feel the heat.
When it first started I would turn the a/c on to cool off the compressor.
Now I unplug it when it is off and not being used.

Looking at the wiring diagram Publication # 31-8857, it shows the the power/fan speed selector on one side of the 220 line connecting to terminal A Brown wire, it shows terminal 2 going to the air sweep louver motor and fan motor, terminal 1 goes to the overload protector.

On the other line, Blue wire it shows the following connections a black wire from one side of the thermostat anticipator, a white wire connecting to the thermostat, a black wire connecting to the energy saver switch for continous fan operation when the energy saver switch is in the off position it connects to the white fan motor wire.

Connections on the other side of the thermostat are a red wire which connects to the other black wire going to the thermostat anticiapator and the red wire goes to the run side of the compressor.
At the red wire connection of the thermostat a blue wire connects to the other side of the energy saver switch, when the energy saver switch is on it connects the white fan wire to the blue wire going to the thermostat which opens the circuit when the thermostat reaches the set temperature it then opens the circuit connecting the the white wire to The Blue line wire turning the fan motor off.

The only connection going to the Blue line wire and the red run wire side of the compressor all of the time when the a/c is off is the thermostat anticipator as shown on the GE wiring diagram but in the parts section it is called a heater-anticipator GE part number WJ41XO186.

Am I correct in persuming this is the cause of the problem?
It appears to be a direct connection to the Blue line side and the red compressor run wire and if the heater anticipator were defective would it create this problem?
I do not want to change one part to only find out it is not the correct part.

Went to GE's help site and they sent email back stating it was beyond their knowledge and could setup a service appoinment.

I have worked with electrical circuits including relays,solenoids and various temperature sensors both automotive and medical equipment rebuilding and servicing so I am not a stranger to schematic diagrams.

: I have a General Electric Model AEM23DBR1
: 24,400 BTU window a/c 220 volt unit.
: The compressor is coming on when the a/c is
: off, the problem started about a month ago.
: The power/fan speed seletor is off, the
: thermostat is turned counter clockwise to
: the off position.

Does the thermostat have an "off" position? Most don't, just warmer.

But anyway... the way I see it, before the compressor would run, both the selector switch and the thermostat contacts would have to be closed. The selector switch should be open when in the off position. If it is not, it is defective and needs to be replaced.

There could (I guess) be a short in the wiring somewhere but I have to think one causing the compressor to actually "run" would be quite unlikely.

: I know it's the compressor as the buzzing noise
: is coming from that area and you can feel
: the heat.

Is the evaporator (cooling) coil getting cold and developing frost? If it is not, either the compressor is NOT running or the system is totally out of refrigerant (IMO unlikely).

I don't know what you hear, but in my opinion it would be extremely unlikely for the compressor to be running with the selector switch in the off position. I suggest someone actually check it rather than relying on anecdotal evidence of its condition.

Dan O.

The thermostat goes from left to right with number 1 being the lowest setting and 10 the highest.
61 degrees being number 1 and 86 degrees being 10.

I consider 1 as off when the temperature is at 50 degrees or below.

As the A/C does not have a transformer and when it was making the buzzing noise I went outside to isolate the sound and it was coming from the compressor.

I do as much of the repair work on everything in the house that I can as the service companies here charge too much for parts and labor and I am on a limited income due to being disabled and with the cost of medications the budget is tight.

Two years ago the plastic condensor fan broke after it slid backwards and hit one of the mounting brackets.
When it was built the clamp holding the fan to the motors shaft had not been tightend properly which caused it to slide back.

To have it repaired by a professional would have cost $250.00, they wanted $165.00 for the fan and the rest for labor plus tax.

I purchased the fan assembly for $61.00 and installed it myself.

The thermostat anticipator which looks to me could be the only part to create a short if it was defective and cause the a/c compressor to come on by itself as can be seen it is the only part that has a direct connection between the line circuit and the compressor run wire.

: The thermostat goes from left to right with
: number 1 being the lowest setting and 10 the
: highest. 61 degrees being number 1 and 86
: degrees being 10.

: I consider 1 as off when the temperature is at
: 50 degrees or below.

: As the A/C does not have a transformer and when
: it was making the buzzing noise I went outside
: to isolate the sound and it was coming from the
: compressor.

: the thermostat anticipator which looks to me
: could be the only part to create a short if
: it was defective and cause the a/c
: compressor to come on by itself

As I stated previously, if the compressor was actually running, there would be signs of refrigeration taking place. With the fan motor not operating, that should cause frost to develop on the unit's evaporator coil.

The compressor could be energized by a short but not actually be running which might cause the sound you hear, but I've never seen such a case myself.

All I can suggest is to remove the unit and trace the power flow to the source of the sound. Sorry.

Dan O.