: The F2 failure code usually indicates a
: sticking relay in the control system. On
: your model that relay appears to be part of
: the electronic clock in which case it will
: likely need to be replaced.
Thanks for the fast response, Dan:
Checking the Sears website, I see the replacement ERC is $140.00. I sure would like to be able to positively identify it as the culprit before I drop that kind of change. Do you have any diagnostic procedures for this relay? I see it's soldered to the board and realize it's not seperately replaceable, but would still like to nail it down for sure.
I fired up the oven yesterday and at a oven setting of 530 degrees, I get a steady 350 on the oven thermometer, with the burner cycling to keep that temp. It is apparent while it is warming up that the temperature reading on the display is rising much faster than the temperature in the oven itself. For instance, it reads 350, but when you open the door it is just a lukewarm puff of air on the face. The three beep 'temperature reached' alarm is working again, but beeps when the temperature set on the ERC readout is reached . Since the ERC reads resistance only, doesn't this indicate I'm running higher resistance than I should? It seems if I had a sticking relay, I'd have a runaway oven every time. If it is an intermittent relay fault, then it would seem I should have good temperature until the relay stuck, then a runaway condition again. This hasn't happened yet, and this problem has gone on for a month or two now. I'm getting 1100 ohms at the pins on the ERC temp sensor pins, so I'm guessing that I may have high resistance on the ERC, but I've never recieved the F8 failure code for 'ERC temp control failure'. The sensor 'short to ground' test also came up OK.
I hate to be one to ask advice and then say,"Are you sure?", but if I could afford to drop $140, I would've called in a repairman months ago. However, if that's the problem for sure, it's worth $140 to have peace with the Mrs. over this long-standing problem. Thanks again.
