1968 Magic Chef...Thanks!

1968 Magic Chef...Thanks!

Joe F -- Monday, 10 June 2002, at 12:48 p.m.

Dan,

Recall some time ago, I posted some questions on my 1968 Magic Chef wall oven that I needed repair information on.

1) Mossman's of Canada was able to supply the needed parts microfilm. They were the only place that really helped out in this regards. I have now keep in contact with their purchasing manager as he is a car nut like me. Great company, nice folks.

2) Jeff Worrall (who you of course know well) also provided the needed support both via e-mail and on the DIY.com forum that we both moderate. Jeff is a true professional in his field. I'm glad to count him as a friend.

3) Repairing it was a bit of a story. Lol. It took a while to get the needed brackets/rollers and when the 0284263K (RH bracket) was sent, it came with the wrong roller (too small) installed. I called up the parts man that same Saturday and explained and he surmised it might be a substitution and to go ahead and install it. The door was probably worse than before the repair.

To make a long story short, after I found out that 263K might be discontinued (any word on this?)I luckily had ordered an extra 1043211 roller (which is the right size) and had to press that into the 263K bracket I bought. Also, the 0528243K hinges are the same for right and left now. You have to flip the arms over the stops to use them...they fold them over to package them more concisely.

Here's what I wound up doing:

1) Replaced the two upper door hinges..part #0528243K
2) Replaced the door springs, #1790236
3) Replaced the roller brackets, 0284262K for LH and 0284263K for RH.
4) Cut off the roller on the 263K and installed the 1043211 roller onto it. The door now works like it should.

I have to install new door seals, which my parts guy says he has complete with the wire band strap(aftermarket brand). He had a 72" seal kit in Gemline but it wasn't closed all the way around (the wire slips into it not through it), so I opted to measure the old seals and buy the fitted pieces with the wire band (they come different sizes) I also had a smell of gas which was corrected by removing and retightening the 7/16" Loxit nut on the main line coming out of the unit.

Price of the parts 100 bucks. Aggravation of doing it twice, unknown.

Fixing it correctly yourself with the support and help of good folks in the industry and against those people that say "Too old. You'll never get those parts or information".....PRICELESS.

Thanks Dan and hope this might help someone.

Regards,
Joe Figurelli
DIY.Com
Automotive Moderator

Re: 1968 Magic Chef...Thanks!

Joe F -- Tuesday, 11 June 2002, at 12:33 p.m.

Here's another one for ya Dan.

Do you feel that the old stuff is made better like this? I feel that the older stuff was of better quality in a lot of ways, easier to service, and if the parts are still available, they are worth fixing as they seem to last.

Also, any experience with how I can test the safety valve (this is a pilot system) for function/problems? I've soaped it and there's no leaks from any connections.

I get a smell every once and a while through the vent trim (the chrome piece above the upper door) and would like to know how to check the safety valve for proper function. Doesn't smell like gas to me, but want to be 100% :).

Thanks,
Joe

Re: 1968 Magic Chef...Thanks! *LINK*

Dan O. -- Tuesday, 11 June 2002, at 1:14 p.m.

Thanks for the informative follow up.

: Do you feel that the old stuff is made better
: like this? I feel that the older stuff was
: of better quality in a lot of ways, easier
: to service, and if the parts are still
: available, they are worth fixing as they
: seem to last.

Yes, I do believe that in most cases older appliances are of much higher durability and more servicer friendly.

: Also, any experience with how I can test the
: safety valve (this is a pilot system) for
: function/problems?

I'm afraid I do not know how you would test such a device other than just seeing if the valve opens within a set period of time after the pilot has extended onto the sensor bulb. Unfortunately I do not know what that time duration is regulated to be for the safety device used in your range but not much more than in the area of 1 - 1.5 minutes anyway.

If you plan on keeping the appliance for a while and want to be *absolutely sure* it is functioning properly, you could just replace it (while you can) or send it to the company linked below for rebuilding.

Being slow to open could be caused by a defective valve, dirty sensor bulb or dirty/partially plugged pilot as described at this link.

LINK > Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems

Dan O.
Appliance411
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

RePco Replacement Parts, Inc - Gas Valve Rebuliders